What to Do If Your Body Changes During the Dress Process

One of the most common questions I get in my studio is: “What if my body changes between now and my wedding or special occasion?”

The short answer is simple, but it’s often surprising to hear: 

The body you bring me is the body I will work with.

Yes, your intentions may be perfect. You might plan to lose weight, tone up, or make “just a few changes” before the big day. And yes, life has a way of getting in the way. Work, stress, travel, sleep schedules, and sometimes just plain living often mean that body changes either never happen or happen in unexpected ways.

So what does that mean for your custom gown, prom dress, or formalwear? Let’s break it down.

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Timing Is Everything

Some brides come to me too far in advance, thinking, “I’ll start working out, I’ll eat better, I’ll lose a few pounds and it will be perfect by the first fitting.” Or the opposite: some wait too long, thinking, “I’ll get to the fittings last minute to make sure my dress matches my final figure.”

Both scenarios create stress... for both of us. If you come too early and your body doesn’t change as planned, we may have to make unnecessary adjustments later, having wasted a lot of time just waiting on weight loss/toning/changes that never happen. If you wait too late, there may not be enough time to accommodate any real or imagined changes, and fitting the dress properly becomes a challenge.

Construction stage of a custom VdV bridal gown, 2025

The reality: the body you have now is what I will use as the foundation. Planning around it wisely is the key.

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Consider a Corset Finish

If you know your body is likely to fluctuate - be it due to stress, eating habits, sleeplessness, or natural variations - a corset finish can be a lifesaver.

Corsets allow 2–4 inches of adjustment, giving you breathing room (literally) for body changes that happen naturally. They are forgiving, flexible, and perfect for the reality of life.

Corsets are my specialty, in case you didn't know!

Think of it this way: a corset is your safety net. Instead of forcing your body to conform to the dress exactly, the dress conforms to you... comfortably.

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Pay Attention to Your Cycle

Things you'd never really consider, but that's exactly why I'm here as your specialist. 

Your menstrual cycle can make a huge difference in how a dress fits. Water retention, bloating, and general swelling are all normal parts of your cycle, but they can add inches to your body at exactly the wrong time if you aren’t planning around them.

Consider the timing of your fittings relative to your cycle, and even relative to the date of your event. You know your body best. If you notice you tend to bloat at certain times of the month, plan your fittings during your “baseline” days. This small adjustment can save a lot of stress and last-minute tweaks. 

Generally, we should always aim for fitting around the time of month and time of day that you plan to wear your custom piece.

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Shapewear Is Your Friend

For some clients, especially those whose bodies are prone to natural fluctuation, shapewear can be a great tool to maintain consistency during the fitting process.

Decide early if this is right for you. Wearing the same foundation garments for each fitting ensures that your body sits the same way each time, allowing us to build the dress around your shape accurately.

Shapewear is not just about slimming, contrary to popular belief. It’s about consistency, which is critical when building a dress from scratch.

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Accept That Life Happens

Even with all the planning in the world, bodies shift, move, and fluctuate. Stress, late nights, travel, and celebrations will all leave their mark... That’s normal.

The key is to work with your body as it is, make strategic choices for flexibility (corset, shapewear), and plan fittings intelligently. That combination allows you to get the best fit possible without anxiety, panic, or endless last-minute adjustments.

✅ Quick Tips Recap

1. Plan your first fitting wisely. Too early or too late can cause unnecessary stress.

2. The body you bring me is the body I will work with. Accept it, work with it, celebrate it.

3. Corset finishes give flexibility for natural changes. Consider this if your body fluctuates.

4. Mind your cycle. Plan around bloating and water retention.

5. Shapewear is a tool for consistent fittings, not a crutch.

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The truth is: a dress built from scratch will always be your best friend when your body changes, because it was made for you - not a size chart, not a mannequin, not a past customer.

Life happens; bodies change. But a well-planned, well-fitted dress ensures that you still feel confident, secure, and beautiful no matter what.

With Love,

The Hidden Architecture of a Well-Made Dress (And Why You Feel the Difference)

There's this moment that happens in a truly well-made dress that is pretty difficult to explain unless you’ve experienced it.

You zip it up… take a breath…

And suddenly, everything just feels right.

You’re standing straighter;

Your shoulders relax;

Your waist feels supported, not squeezed;

You feel held, not trapped.

That feeling is not magic. It isn't luck.

And it is definitely not accidental.

It is architecture.

Inside view of a custom VdV piece, 2024

Not the kind you see on the outside, but the kind that lives quietly underneath, doing the work you will probably never notice… until you wear a dress that doesn’t have it. That's when it becomes glaringly obvious that something is wrong.

A Dress Is Not Just Fabric and Design

When most people shop for a dress, they are looking at:

• Colour

• Style

• Trend

• Neckline/length

• Price

But what actually determines how a dress feels on your body is what you don’t see:

• Internal structure

• Stabilising layers

• Strategic seam placement

• Support zones

• Weight distribution

• Foundation compatibility

A beautiful dress without internal structure is like building a house with beautiful walls and no foundation.

It may look good on the hanger...

In the industry this is called 'hanger appeal', where some dresses look terrible on a hanger and absolutely fabulous on a mannequin or body).

Custom VdV piece with cape sleeves, 2024

It may even look good for photos... 

If ever I have pieces to prepare for an event or editorial, it's important for me to know if the pieces need to be 'photoshoot ready' or 'runway ready', because things can always be pinned and tweaked for photos, whereas runway records movement. So much time can be saved knowing how a garment is going to be used so that you can focus on the areas that matter for the occasion. By the way, remind me to tell you about the very moment I realised I had been doing too much at a fashion show, which also happened to be when I understood that I had amassed skills that other designers didn't even have simply because I wasn't trying to use cheat codes when I was learning how to design and create.

But it will not carry you comfortably through hours of movement, sitting, dancing, hugging, eating, and breathing... like a normal human being.

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The Secret Layers No One Talks About

A well-made dress often contains multiple hidden elements working together in one accord.

Stabilising Base Layers

These prevent stretching, pulling, and twisting once the dress is on the body.

Internal Support (Boning, Structure, Reinforcement)

This is what helps a bodice stay where it should, which is particularly important in strapless or structured gowns.

Dresses at various stages of construction in the VdV studio

Good structure means:

• Less pulling up (I can't tell you how much I hate seeing this!)

• Less adjusting

• Better posture naturally (and a good pair of heels also adds to good posture)

• Better bust support

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Weight Distribution Design

In formalwear and bridal especially, dresses can be heavy.

A well-made dress spreads weight across the body so one area isn’t carrying everything.

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Seam Engineering

Yes... seam placement is engineering.

Seams can:

• Sculpt and create illusions of shape

• Lengthen visually

• Support curves

• Reduce pulling across stress points

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Why Two Dresses Can Look Similar, But Feel Completely Different

This is one of the biggest surprises clients experience.

Two dresses can look nearly identical online. I mean, come on, we've all seen those "what I ordered vs what I got" posts, or "designer vs budget". 

When worn:

One feels:

• Stable

• Supportive

• Comfortable

• Secure

The other feels:

• Tight in the wrong places

• Loose where support is needed

• Restrictive when sitting or moving

• Like you are constantly adjusting yourself

The difference is almost always internal construction. Think of it like a multi-layered cake - without a good foundation, proper cake base, all the dowels that keep the layers from collapsing on each other... everything would flop.

This Is Why “Fit” Is Not Just About Size

True fit is about how the garment and body work together in motion.

A well-built dress considers:

• How you breathe

• How you sit

• How you turn

• How fabric reacts to body heat (some brides need special assistance with sweating issues on their wedding day)

• How structure shifts over hours of wear

This is why two dresses in the same size can feel worlds apart.

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The Emotional Side of Good Construction

Here’s the part no one talks about enough:

When a dress is built properly, your brain stops thinking about it.

You are free to:

• Be present

• Enjoy your event

• Move naturally

• Focus on memories instead of maintenance

That is luxury.

Not just price. Not just brand.

But peace inside the garment.

Why This Matters Even More in Bridal and Formalwear

These garments are worn during emotionally and physically intense days.

You are:

• Moving constantly

• Being photographed constantly

• Hugging people

• Sitting and standing repeatedly

• Often wearing the dress for 8–14 hours

Without proper internal architecture, small discomforts can become big distractions and a bit of a nuisance.

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The Slow Fashion Connection

Slow fashion is not only about sustainability.

It is about intention.

A well-made dress:

• Lasts longer

• Performs better

• Requires fewer emergency fixes

• Creates less stress for the wearer

• Often needs fewer alterations

And most importantly:

It respects the body wearing it.

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The Part Most Clients Never See

When I build a custom piece, a large portion of the time is spent on elements that will never be visible in photos, because preparation is everything.

Inner construction on a custom VdV gown, 2026

Hidden stitching. Hidden reinforcement. Hidden layers - interlining, boning, padding.

Those invisible details are what allow you to feel confident, supported, and comfortable on one of the biggest days of your life.

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The Truth

If a dress looks beautiful but feels stressful to wear, then it's probably not well made.

Beauty should never come at the cost of comfort, confidence, or peace of mind. That being said, where extreme shaping or support has been requested, there will be some degree sacrifice on comfort as you know it, as the piece pulls you into the correct posture and fit, but you should still be able to move and breathe and do all the things.

The best dresses do not fight your body; they work with it... Quietly. Consistently. Reliably.

And when that happens, you don’t just look good; you feel like yourself, at your very best.

So, if you ever wondered why some dresses just feel different, now you know.

It was never just about the fabric or the label on the inside.

It was always about what was holding everything together underneath.

With Love,

The Custom Experience Is Not the Boutique Experience

 

This is one of the first things I explain to potential clients, and it’s also one of the most important things to understand before choosing between a boutique gown and a custom-made piece.

They are not the same experience.

Neither is better or worse, but they are fundamentally different. And when expectations don’t align with the process, that’s where disappointment can creep in.

There Is No Rack to Browse

In a boutique, the experience begins with a rack of dresses. You arrive, you browse, you try things on. There is instant visual feedback - this works, this doesn’t, I like this neckline, I hate that fabric. It satisfies the very human desire for instant gratification.

In a custom studio, that rack does not exist.

Every piece I create is made from scratch. There is no stock; there are no samples waiting to be tried on the moment you walk in. You’re not stepping into a space to select a finished dress... you’re stepping into a space to create one. 

That can feel unfamiliar, especially in a world where we’re used to seeing things immediately on our bodies.

Because of this, I often encourage clients to try on dresses should the opportunity arise. Trying things on helps you learn what works for you, but just as importantly, what doesn’t. That information becomes incredibly valuable when we move into the custom design phase.

The Boutique Experience Has Its Own Magic

There is something undeniably special about the boutique experience, particularly for brides.

It’s social. It’s emotional. It often includes an entourage of loved ones offering feedback, opinions, encouragement, and tears. It’s the experience we’ve seen in movies and on reality TV: champagne, mirrors, dramatic reveals.

For many brides, that experience is deeply meaningful, and it absolutely has its place.

But it’s important to understand that a custom experience offers a different kind of magic.

A Custom Dress Is Built Around You, Not the Other Way Around

With a custom piece, you are not trying to fit yourself into a dress. 

The dress is being built for you.

Van der Vlugt bespoke lace bridal gown, 2020

From the very beginning, your body, proportions, posture, lifestyle, and personal style are part of the conversation. You are involved in the design process - not just approving a final look, but shaping how it comes to life.

You see your dress begin as something humble and unassuming - often a basic brown cotton toile - and slowly evolve into something extraordinary over the course of fittings. That transformation is intentional. It allows structure, fit, and balance to be perfected before luxury fabrics and finishes are introduced. It helps us to nail down every aspect of foundation and form, before moving onto the details of decoration and finishing (which I call "the fairy godmother effect"), and ensures nothing gets wasted in the process.

This is also why your first fitting is not about perfection. I'm very transparent with my clients about how unglamorous first fittings are and how important that first basic fitting is for me as the creator of the gown.

The first fitting is about establishing foundations:

• Placement

• Proportion

• Structure

• Comfort

Perfection comes later, once the bones of the garment are correct. 

Energy, Environment, and Intention Matter

This is something not everyone talks about, but many clients feel deeply connected to it.

When your dress is made custom, it hasn’t been worn by other people. It hasn’t passed through dozens of bodies, mirrors, or fitting rooms. From a spiritual and emotional standpoint, the energy poured into the piece begins with you.

You know exactly who is making your dress;

You know where it’s being made;

You know the environment it’s being created in.

There is something powerful about that connection - about being part of the process from the very beginning rather than entering the story at the end.

The Process Is Collaborative and Flexible

One of the greatest advantages of custom work is that the process allows for evolution.

As your dress comes to life:

• You can see how ideas translate into reality

• You can make informed decisions along the way

• You can pivot if something no longer feels right

This doesn’t mean endless changes - but it does mean that your voice is part of the journey, not just the final reveal.

By the time you reach your final fitting, you haven’t just received a dress - you’ve witnessed its creation, from zero to hero.

Van der Vlugt custom graduation gown fitting, 2025

Your Dress Can Only Ever Be Yours

Perhaps the most significant difference of all is this:

A custom dress can only ever belong to you.

No other woman will purchase the same design. No one across the world will step into the same gown. Your photos will reflect something entirely one of a kind: created for your body, your moment, and your story.

In a time when images travel fast and trends cycle quickly, there is something deeply grounding about wearing a piece that exists nowhere else.

Choosing the Experience That Fits You

Some clients want the excitement of trying on gowns immediately, hearing opinions, and saying “yes” in the mirror that same day.

Others want intention, craftsmanship, privacy, and a garment that unfolds slowly and deliberately.

Neither choice is wrong, but they are not interchangeable.

Understanding the difference allows you to choose the experience that truly aligns with who you are, how you make decisions, and what you want to remember long after the day itself has passed.

And that, more than anything, is where the beauty lies.

With Love,

Is the Custom Process For You?

 

Custom design is not for everyone, and that's okay!

Before committing to a custom garment, it’s important to be honest with yourself about the type of person you are, how you make decisions, manage uncertainty, and engage in a creative process. I'm writing here not to convince you, but to help you decide.

Van der Vlugt bridal corset under construction, 2025

Custom Might Be for You If…

You value fit and craftsmanship over speed.
Custom work takes time. There is no instant try-on, no same-day decision, and no final result at the first fitting. If you understand that true fit is built gradually, not immediately, custom may be a good match for you.

You want the garment designed around your body, not adjusted to it.
Custom design starts with your proportions, posture, comfort, and movement. If you’ve often felt that dresses are “almost right, but never quite,” custom allows the garment to be built for you from the start, with you in mind.

You can trust a process without needing to control every step.
Custom work is collaborative, but it isn’t micromanaged. You’ll be guided, informed, and consulted - not asked to oversee every technical decision. If you’re comfortable allowing an expert to lead while keeping you involved at the right moments, the process tends to be smooth and rewarding. You hired the experts; now, let the experts do the work.

You are comfortable with things being unfinished before they are refined.
Early fittings are about structure, balance, and proportion, not beauty or perfection. If you can tolerate garments looking incomplete while the foundations are being established, you’ll likely enjoy the journey.

You can visualise, or are open to being guided when you can’t.
Custom design often requires imagining the end result before it exists. If visualising doesn’t come naturally to you, that’s okay, as long as you’re open to guidance, reference images, and trust in the process rather than needing constant visual confirmation (which can lead to micromanaging mentioned above).

You want something truly one of a kind.
A custom garment exists only once. It is designed, made, and finished specifically for you. If exclusivity and intentionality matter to you, custom delivers that inherently.

Custom May Not Be for You If…

You become easily anxious when you can’t see immediate results or be in constant contact.

If uncertainty causes stress rather than excitement, the gradual nature of custom work may feel overwhelming. The intervals between fittings will have you overthinking to the point that...

You need frequent reassurance or repeated confirmation.
Custom design requires trust and patience. If you find yourself needing constant check-ins or validation at every stage, the process may feel tense rather than enjoyable... for both of us.

You tend to micromanage when under pressure.
Custom work relies on skilled execution behind the scenes. If relinquishing control feels uncomfortable, the process can become frustrating for both client and maker. And whatever energy you give is the energy being put into the project at the end of the day.

You struggle to visualise and feel uncomfortable relying on expertise.
If you need to see a finished version before committing to decisions - and are uncomfortable proceeding without that - a boutique experience may feel safer.

You are driven primarily by speed or budget.
Custom garments reflect time, labour, and craftsmanship. They are not designed for urgency or bargain-seeking. 

Once you are a client, once I have all your patterns in my database, then you can maybe message me on a whim for an event you have in three weeks' time because we have already gone through the process before, but definitely not for a first-time custom client.

The Right Process Creates the Right Outcome

Choosing custom isn’t about being more stylish, more bridal, or more “serious” about fashion. It’s about alignment.

When expectations match the process, custom design becomes an experience that feels thoughtful, calm, and deeply personal. When they don’t, even the most beautiful garment can feel stressful. The best results come when both client and maker can move through the process with trust, clarity, and mutual respect.

And that’s when the real magic happens - quietly, intentionally and without rush.

With Love,

Why I Hate Alterations (And When I’ll Actually Do Them)

Let’s get one thing straight: alterations are not my favourite thing in the world. In fact, I often tell clients, “Given the choice, I would almost always make the piece from scratch.” 

Why? 

Because altering a dress is often more work than making it from the ground up. And yes, I mean way more work.

When you alter a garment - especially a wedding gown or heavily beaded couture creation - you’re not just sewing in a seam. You’re deconstructing it... and then reconstructing it. Twice as long, twice as much delicate handling, twice the headaches. Lace, beading, boning… all of it has to come off first, just so I can assess what’s actually possible. And that’s before the actual alteration even begins. This is also when the client has long left the fitting appointment where they already asked for an estimation of time and cost. Fun times.

Here’s the kicker: because I didn’t make the dress, I don’t know how it was built until I open it up. Suddenly, what seemed like a minor fix can spiral into a full-on investigation. Every layer tells a story, and sometimes I find techniques or shortcuts from the original designer that weren’t ideal to begin with... and now it’s my job to make it right.

Then there’s the surprise flaws problem. Occasionally, while working on an alteration, I’ll find imperfections that the original manufacturer left behind - things the client didn’t notice, or assumed I was supposed to fix. That leaves me in a tricky position: Do I fix something that was never my problem, or leave it and risk looking incompetent? It's not exactly the fun part of dressmaking.

Deconstruct to reconstruct takes twice as long

The Cost Misconception

One thing I cannot stress enough: the cost of alterations has nothing to do with what you paid for the garment.

Whether your dress was $300 or $3,000, the work required to alter it is based entirely on complexity, time, materials, and construction, not retail price. A couture-level gown with layers of tulle, hand-sewn lace, or intricate beading will always require more time, skill, and attention than a simpler mass-market dress.

If someone assumes that because their gown was “expensive,” the alterations should be cheap... that’s not how craftsmanship works. Good work takes time, skill, and care, regardless of the price tag on the original dress. That being said, I'm reminded of a time a client brought me a fast fashion romper from Forever 21, and in both our delusions asked me to turn it into something grand for her wedding, with lace inserts and the like. Only upon taking apart one seam did I realise that the fabric was basically eating itself every time it went under the needle and the entire project was a nightmare before I could even begin. So, expecting that a cheaply-bought, cheaply-made piece using weak materials will also cost less to alter is rather unreasonable. In fact, that's even more work to salvage.

So, When Will I Do Alterations?

I’ll absolutely do specialised couture and bridal alterations - particularly when lace, beading, layers, or structural elements are involved - mainly because there's so few of us who can do that type of work. However, if your alteration is “just a small hem” or “take in the side seam,” that’s seamstress work- and frankly, it feels like an insult to the artistry of couture, and the value of my time and purpose in the studio. I really implore anyone to consider carefully whether the job they need to get done requires a designer or a seamstress. It will save you time, money and unnecessary stress.

Here’s my advice to clients:

• Understand the difference between basic seam adjustments and couture-level alterations. One requires a skilled technician, while the other requires an experienced specialist.

• Expect specialised work to take time and likely to cost more than expected. (This should be part of your outfit budget from the very start, by the way.)

• If you want a perfectly executed piece? Start from scratch whenever possible.

Alterations are a necessary evil, but the right foundation - and mindset - will make the process as smooth as possible. And for me, they’ll always be secondary to creating something designed and made just for you.

With Love,

Preparing for Your First Fitting: A Simple Checklist

Your first fitting is the starting point for creating a garment that fits beautifully and reflects your personal style. Being prepared allows the process to be smooth, efficient, and productive. Here is a practical checklist to help you arrive ready and confident:

1. Undergarments

Bring a bra that represents your usual lift and shape - lightly padded or more structured, as you prefer. Sports bras should be avoided. If you plan to wear shapewear on your event day, bring it along, too. This helps us build the dress with your body exactly as you intend it to be.

2. Shoes

Wear the heels you plan to wear on the day, or something very close in height and style. Shoe height changes posture, proportions, and how the hem will fall - small differences matter, otherwise it wouldn't be custom.

3. Clothing

Wear simple, fitted clothing over your undergarments, preferably neutral colours. Avoid bulky tops or anything with strong textures that could interfere with assessing your body shape during consultation and measurement-taking. A slim maxi dress that you can easily remove or leggings and a vest top is perfect. 

4. Hair

Tie your hair back or keep it neat. This allows us to check necklines, straps, and back details accurately. Loose hair can hide important lines and affect fitting decisions.

5. Mindset

Bring patience and openness. Fittings are a process of refinement - some changes happen over multiple sessions, and small adjustments now save frustration later. I always say that some fittings are for me and not the client, as they help me make the seemingly minor but very crucial adjustments to patterns and samples moving forward. Some fittings are for the client to see the progress and vision coming to life, but others may seem quite boring and unproductive... trust me, they aren't!

6. Notes & Questions

If you have concerns about comfort, movement, or style, write them down. Fittings are the perfect time to clarify and ensure the garment aligns with your expectations. Make sure your thoughts and desires are expressed. It's of utmost importance to me to hear your voice and not the voices and opinions of everyone else around you.

Basic fitting underway at the VdV studio, 2025

By arriving prepared, you give yourself and your designer the best opportunity to create a garment that fits beautifully, moves naturally, and truly represents your style. Each fitting is a step toward the final moment when you see yourself in a dress that feels made for you... because it is.

You can read the more detailed version of this article here

See you in the studio soon!

With Love,

The Difference Between Couture, Custom and Off-the-Rack

 

These terms are often used interchangeably in the fashion world, particularly around weddings and special events, but they actually describe very different approaches to how a garment is designed, made, and experienced. Understanding the distinction can help you make more informed and confident decisions, whether you are dressing for a wedding, a formal event, or any meaningful occasion in your life.

Off-the-rack garments are designed and produced in standard sizes, intended to fit as many bodies as possible. When you purchase off-the-rack, you are choosing a finished design that already exists, usually made in bulk. Alterations can be done to improve the fit, but there are limits - the garment was not created with your specific proportions, posture, or movement in mind. This is most often true for Caribbean women, who come in every shape, size and combination but "standard". This option prioritises accessibility and speed, which can be ideal in some circumstances, particularly when time is limited.

Custom garments sit between off-the-rack and couture. A custom piece is created specifically for you, often using an existing design as a starting point and then adapted to suit your body, event, and personal style. Measurements are taken, fittings are scheduled, and thoughtful adjustments are made along the way. This process allows for flexibility in fabric choice, silhouette, and detail, and it is well-suited to both bridal and special occasion wear where fit, comfort, and individuality matter.

Couture represents the highest level of craftsmanship. These garments are built, not assembled. They are constructed largely by hand, using traditional techniques that prioritise structure, internal support, and refined finishing. Couture pieces often require multiple fittings and a significant investment of time and skill. Much of the work is invisible to the eye but deeply felt by the wearer in how the garment moves, supports, and holds its shape over long hours.

Van der Vlugt custom couture construction underway, 2024

The key difference across all three approaches lies in intention, process, and labour.

Off-the-rack (also known as Ready-to-Wear) prioritises efficiency and scale. 

Custom prioritises adaptability and personalisation. 

Couture prioritises precision, craftsmanship, and longevity.

Van der Vlugt runway couture, 2019

There is no universal “right” choice. The best option depends on your timeline, budget, the importance of the occasion, and how you want to feel in the garment. Some events call for ease and simplicity; others call for something deeply considered and made just for you.

What matters most is understanding what you are investing in - not just financially, but emotionally. Clothing for milestone moments carries meaning. When you understand the process behind the garment, you are better equipped to choose one that aligns with your values, your body, and your expectations.

Whether it is a wedding, a black-tie event, or a once-in-a-lifetime celebration, the way a garment is made matters. Furthermore, when craftsmanship meets intention, the result is something that goes far beyond what hangs on the rack.

Van der Vlugt couture, 2022

With Love,