Why I Hate Alterations (And When I’ll Actually Do Them)

Let’s get one thing straight: alterations are not my favourite thing in the world. In fact, I often tell clients, “Given the choice, I would almost always make the piece from scratch.” 

Why? 

Because altering a dress is often more work than making it from the ground up. And yes, I mean way more work.

When you alter a garment - especially a wedding gown or heavily beaded couture creation - you’re not just sewing in a seam. You’re deconstructing it... and then reconstructing it. Twice as long, twice as much delicate handling, twice the headaches. Lace, beading, boning… all of it has to come off first, just so I can assess what’s actually possible. And that’s before the actual alteration even begins. This is also when the client has long left the fitting appointment where they already asked for an estimation of time and cost. Fun times.

Here’s the kicker: because I didn’t make the dress, I don’t know how it was built until I open it up. Suddenly, what seemed like a minor fix can spiral into a full-on investigation. Every layer tells a story, and sometimes I find techniques or shortcuts from the original designer that weren’t ideal to begin with... and now it’s my job to make it right.

Then there’s the surprise flaws problem. Occasionally, while working on an alteration, I’ll find imperfections that the original manufacturer left behind - things the client didn’t notice, or assumed I was supposed to fix. That leaves me in a tricky position: Do I fix something that was never my problem, or leave it and risk looking incompetent? It's not exactly the fun part of dressmaking.

Deconstruct to reconstruct takes twice as long

The Cost Misconception

One thing I cannot stress enough: the cost of alterations has nothing to do with what you paid for the garment.

Whether your dress was $300 or $3,000, the work required to alter it is based entirely on complexity, time, materials, and construction, not retail price. A couture-level gown with layers of tulle, hand-sewn lace, or intricate beading will always require more time, skill, and attention than a simpler mass-market dress.

If someone assumes that because their gown was “expensive,” the alterations should be cheap... that’s not how craftsmanship works. Good work takes time, skill, and care, regardless of the price tag on the original dress. That being said, I'm reminded of a time a client brought me a fast fashion romper from Forever 21, and in both our delusions asked me to turn it into something grand for her wedding, with lace inserts and the like. Only upon taking apart one seam did I realise that the fabric was basically eating itself every time it went under the needle and the entire project was a nightmare before I could even begin. So, expecting that a cheaply-bought, cheaply-made piece using weak materials will also cost less to alter is rather unreasonable. In fact, that's even more work to salvage.

So, When Will I Do Alterations?

I’ll absolutely do specialised couture and bridal alterations - particularly when lace, beading, layers, or structural elements are involved - mainly because there's so few of us who can do that type of work. However, if your alteration is “just a small hem” or “take in the side seam,” that’s seamstress work- and frankly, it feels like an insult to the artistry of couture, and the value of my time and purpose in the studio. I really implore anyone to consider carefully whether the job they need to get done requires a designer or a seamstress. It will save you time, money and unnecessary stress.

Here’s my advice to clients:

• Understand the difference between basic seam adjustments and couture-level alterations. One requires a skilled technician, while the other requires an experienced specialist.

• Expect specialised work to take time and likely to cost more than expected. (This should be part of your outfit budget from the very start, by the way.)

• If you want a perfectly executed piece? Start from scratch whenever possible.

Alterations are a necessary evil, but the right foundation - and mindset - will make the process as smooth as possible. And for me, they’ll always be secondary to creating something designed and made just for you.

With Love,

The Difference Between Couture, Custom and Off-the-Rack

 

These terms are often used interchangeably in the fashion world, particularly around weddings and special events, but they actually describe very different approaches to how a garment is designed, made, and experienced. Understanding the distinction can help you make more informed and confident decisions, whether you are dressing for a wedding, a formal event, or any meaningful occasion in your life.

Off-the-rack garments are designed and produced in standard sizes, intended to fit as many bodies as possible. When you purchase off-the-rack, you are choosing a finished design that already exists, usually made in bulk. Alterations can be done to improve the fit, but there are limits - the garment was not created with your specific proportions, posture, or movement in mind. This is most often true for Caribbean women, who come in every shape, size and combination but "standard". This option prioritises accessibility and speed, which can be ideal in some circumstances, particularly when time is limited.

Custom garments sit between off-the-rack and couture. A custom piece is created specifically for you, often using an existing design as a starting point and then adapted to suit your body, event, and personal style. Measurements are taken, fittings are scheduled, and thoughtful adjustments are made along the way. This process allows for flexibility in fabric choice, silhouette, and detail, and it is well-suited to both bridal and special occasion wear where fit, comfort, and individuality matter.

Couture represents the highest level of craftsmanship. These garments are built, not assembled. They are constructed largely by hand, using traditional techniques that prioritise structure, internal support, and refined finishing. Couture pieces often require multiple fittings and a significant investment of time and skill. Much of the work is invisible to the eye but deeply felt by the wearer in how the garment moves, supports, and holds its shape over long hours.

Van der Vlugt custom couture construction underway, 2024

The key difference across all three approaches lies in intention, process, and labour.

Off-the-rack (also known as Ready-to-Wear) prioritises efficiency and scale. 

Custom prioritises adaptability and personalisation. 

Couture prioritises precision, craftsmanship, and longevity.

Van der Vlugt runway couture, 2019

There is no universal “right” choice. The best option depends on your timeline, budget, the importance of the occasion, and how you want to feel in the garment. Some events call for ease and simplicity; others call for something deeply considered and made just for you.

What matters most is understanding what you are investing in - not just financially, but emotionally. Clothing for milestone moments carries meaning. When you understand the process behind the garment, you are better equipped to choose one that aligns with your values, your body, and your expectations.

Whether it is a wedding, a black-tie event, or a once-in-a-lifetime celebration, the way a garment is made matters. Furthermore, when craftsmanship meets intention, the result is something that goes far beyond what hangs on the rack.

Van der Vlugt couture, 2022

With Love,