Is the Custom Process For You?

 

Custom design is not for everyone, and that's okay!

Before committing to a custom garment, it’s important to be honest with yourself about the type of person you are, how you make decisions, manage uncertainty, and engage in a creative process. I'm writing here not to convince you, but to help you decide.

Van der Vlugt bridal corset under construction, 2025

Custom Might Be for You If…

You value fit and craftsmanship over speed.
Custom work takes time. There is no instant try-on, no same-day decision, and no final result at the first fitting. If you understand that true fit is built gradually, not immediately, custom may be a good match for you.

You want the garment designed around your body, not adjusted to it.
Custom design starts with your proportions, posture, comfort, and movement. If you’ve often felt that dresses are “almost right, but never quite,” custom allows the garment to be built for you from the start, with you in mind.

You can trust a process without needing to control every step.
Custom work is collaborative, but it isn’t micromanaged. You’ll be guided, informed, and consulted - not asked to oversee every technical decision. If you’re comfortable allowing an expert to lead while keeping you involved at the right moments, the process tends to be smooth and rewarding. You hired the experts; now, let the experts do the work.

You are comfortable with things being unfinished before they are refined.
Early fittings are about structure, balance, and proportion, not beauty or perfection. If you can tolerate garments looking incomplete while the foundations are being established, you’ll likely enjoy the journey.

You can visualise, or are open to being guided when you can’t.
Custom design often requires imagining the end result before it exists. If visualising doesn’t come naturally to you, that’s okay, as long as you’re open to guidance, reference images, and trust in the process rather than needing constant visual confirmation (which can lead to micromanaging mentioned above).

You want something truly one of a kind.
A custom garment exists only once. It is designed, made, and finished specifically for you. If exclusivity and intentionality matter to you, custom delivers that inherently.

Custom May Not Be for You If…

You become easily anxious when you can’t see immediate results or be in constant contact.

If uncertainty causes stress rather than excitement, the gradual nature of custom work may feel overwhelming. The intervals between fittings will have you overthinking to the point that...

You need frequent reassurance or repeated confirmation.
Custom design requires trust and patience. If you find yourself needing constant check-ins or validation at every stage, the process may feel tense rather than enjoyable... for both of us.

You tend to micromanage when under pressure.
Custom work relies on skilled execution behind the scenes. If relinquishing control feels uncomfortable, the process can become frustrating for both client and maker. And whatever energy you give is the energy being put into the project at the end of the day.

You struggle to visualise and feel uncomfortable relying on expertise.
If you need to see a finished version before committing to decisions - and are uncomfortable proceeding without that - a boutique experience may feel safer.

You are driven primarily by speed or budget.
Custom garments reflect time, labour, and craftsmanship. They are not designed for urgency or bargain-seeking. 

Once you are a client, once I have all your patterns in my database, then you can maybe message me on a whim for an event you have in three weeks' time because we have already gone through the process before, but definitely not for a first-time custom client.

The Right Process Creates the Right Outcome

Choosing custom isn’t about being more stylish, more bridal, or more “serious” about fashion. It’s about alignment.

When expectations match the process, custom design becomes an experience that feels thoughtful, calm, and deeply personal. When they don’t, even the most beautiful garment can feel stressful. The best results come when both client and maker can move through the process with trust, clarity, and mutual respect.

And that’s when the real magic happens - quietly, intentionally and without rush.

With Love,

Why “Off-the-Rack” Often Fails Couture Expectations

(And What to Know Before You Buy the Dress)

There’s a moment I see all the time in my studio.

A client steps in wearing a beautiful dress she has purchased - sometimes expensive, sometimes not - and says, “I just need a few alterations to make it perfect.”

And I already know: the disappointment didn’t start in my studio. It started at the point of purchase.

Off-the-Rack Is Designed for Averages, Not Individuals

Off-the-rack garments are built for speed, scale, and averages. They are designed to fit as many bodies as reasonably possible, not your body specifically.

That means:

• Bust points are standardized

• Waist placement is generalized

• Proportions assume a “typical” torso-to-leg ratio

If your body doesn’t fall neatly into those assumptions (most bodies don’t, and Caribbean women's bodies most certainly do not), the garment will never sit quite right—no matter how many “small alterations” are done. 

Side note: this is why custom or bespoke design is perfect for the Caribbean woman. 

Fit Issues Are Often Structural, Not Cosmetic

This is where expectations clash with reality.

Clients often think:

“If it pulls here, can’t you just let it out?”
“If the neckline looks off, can’t you reshape it?”

Sometimes, yes. Often, no. 

(And I can't tell you how triggering the word "just" can be.)

Many fit issues are structural:

• The bust apex is too high or too low

• The bodice length doesn’t match your torso

• The garment was never meant to support weight in certain areas

Alterations can refine a structure, but they can’t always rebuild one that was never designed for your proportions in the first place.

Van der Vlugt custom bridal reception dress, 2025

Price Does Not Equal Alteration Potential

This is an important - and often misunderstood - truth:

A more expensive dress is not automatically easier to alter.

In fact, it’s often the opposite.

Higher-end gowns frequently include:

• Multiple internal layers

• Boning, interfacing, or internal corsetry

• Hand-applied lace or beading

All of this increases complexity, and complexity increases labour, time, and cost... regardless of what you paid at checkout.

The dress doesn’t know its price tag. It only knows how it was built.

Inner structure and layers of a purchased bridal gown

When “Just One Change” Becomes Many

Another challenge with off-the-rack garments is that changes rarely exist in isolation.

Adjusting one area often affects:

• Balance

• Proportion

• Drape

• Posture

Lowering a neckline may affect bust support. Shortening a hem changes visual balance. Taking in the waist can distort lace placement.

This is why something that sounds simple (another triggering word) can become a chain reaction... and why expectations need to be set honestly from the start.

This Is Why Starting From Scratch Changes Everything

When I create a garment from the beginning, I’m not fixing existing problems - I’m getting way ahead of potential issues and preventing them.

Starting from scratch allows me to:

• Place structure exactly where your body needs it

• Build support into the garment instead of forcing it later

• Design proportions intentionally, not reactively

This is the heart of slow fashion and couture craftsmanship. It’s not about excess; it’s about intention.

So When Does Off-the-Rack Make Sense?

Off-the-rack can be a great choice when:

• The fit is already close - be honest about your body type and what works for you

• The design is simple - be discerning about the details

• Expectations are realistic - can't stress this one enough!

But when precision, structure, and individuality matter - especially for bridal or special-occasion wear - it’s important to understand the limitations before investing emotionally (and financially) in a piece that may never become what you imagined.

The Takeaway

Off-the-rack garments aren’t bad; they’re just not couture, and they never will be.

And alterations aren’t magic. They’re skilled, precise, and sometimes limited by what already exists. We can only work with the starting point you give us.

If you want a garment that truly fits your body, your posture, your personality and your presence, the best work happens before the first stitch is ever sewn... not after the dress is already finished.

With Love,

Why I Hate Alterations (And When I’ll Actually Do Them)

Let’s get one thing straight: alterations are not my favourite thing in the world. In fact, I often tell clients, “Given the choice, I would almost always make the piece from scratch.” 

Why? 

Because altering a dress is often more work than making it from the ground up. And yes, I mean way more work.

When you alter a garment - especially a wedding gown or heavily beaded couture creation - you’re not just sewing in a seam. You’re deconstructing it... and then reconstructing it. Twice as long, twice as much delicate handling, twice the headaches. Lace, beading, boning… all of it has to come off first, just so I can assess what’s actually possible. And that’s before the actual alteration even begins. This is also when the client has long left the fitting appointment where they already asked for an estimation of time and cost. Fun times.

Here’s the kicker: because I didn’t make the dress, I don’t know how it was built until I open it up. Suddenly, what seemed like a minor fix can spiral into a full-on investigation. Every layer tells a story, and sometimes I find techniques or shortcuts from the original designer that weren’t ideal to begin with... and now it’s my job to make it right.

Then there’s the surprise flaws problem. Occasionally, while working on an alteration, I’ll find imperfections that the original manufacturer left behind - things the client didn’t notice, or assumed I was supposed to fix. That leaves me in a tricky position: Do I fix something that was never my problem, or leave it and risk looking incompetent? It's not exactly the fun part of dressmaking.

Deconstruct to reconstruct takes twice as long

The Cost Misconception

One thing I cannot stress enough: the cost of alterations has nothing to do with what you paid for the garment.

Whether your dress was $300 or $3,000, the work required to alter it is based entirely on complexity, time, materials, and construction, not retail price. A couture-level gown with layers of tulle, hand-sewn lace, or intricate beading will always require more time, skill, and attention than a simpler mass-market dress.

If someone assumes that because their gown was “expensive,” the alterations should be cheap... that’s not how craftsmanship works. Good work takes time, skill, and care, regardless of the price tag on the original dress. That being said, I'm reminded of a time a client brought me a fast fashion romper from Forever 21, and in both our delusions asked me to turn it into something grand for her wedding, with lace inserts and the like. Only upon taking apart one seam did I realise that the fabric was basically eating itself every time it went under the needle and the entire project was a nightmare before I could even begin. So, expecting that a cheaply-bought, cheaply-made piece using weak materials will also cost less to alter is rather unreasonable. In fact, that's even more work to salvage.

So, When Will I Do Alterations?

I’ll absolutely do specialised couture and bridal alterations - particularly when lace, beading, layers, or structural elements are involved - mainly because there's so few of us who can do that type of work. However, if your alteration is “just a small hem” or “take in the side seam,” that’s seamstress work- and frankly, it feels like an insult to the artistry of couture, and the value of my time and purpose in the studio. I really implore anyone to consider carefully whether the job they need to get done requires a designer or a seamstress. It will save you time, money and unnecessary stress.

Here’s my advice to clients:

• Understand the difference between basic seam adjustments and couture-level alterations. One requires a skilled technician, while the other requires an experienced specialist.

• Expect specialised work to take time and likely to cost more than expected. (This should be part of your outfit budget from the very start, by the way.)

• If you want a perfectly executed piece? Start from scratch whenever possible.

Alterations are a necessary evil, but the right foundation - and mindset - will make the process as smooth as possible. And for me, they’ll always be secondary to creating something designed and made just for you.

With Love,

Preparing for Your First Fitting: A Simple Checklist

Your first fitting is the starting point for creating a garment that fits beautifully and reflects your personal style. Being prepared allows the process to be smooth, efficient, and productive. Here is a practical checklist to help you arrive ready and confident:

1. Undergarments

Bring a bra that represents your usual lift and shape - lightly padded or more structured, as you prefer. Sports bras should be avoided. If you plan to wear shapewear on your event day, bring it along, too. This helps us build the dress with your body exactly as you intend it to be.

2. Shoes

Wear the heels you plan to wear on the day, or something very close in height and style. Shoe height changes posture, proportions, and how the hem will fall - small differences matter, otherwise it wouldn't be custom.

3. Clothing

Wear simple, fitted clothing over your undergarments, preferably neutral colours. Avoid bulky tops or anything with strong textures that could interfere with assessing your body shape during consultation and measurement-taking. A slim maxi dress that you can easily remove or leggings and a vest top is perfect. 

4. Hair

Tie your hair back or keep it neat. This allows us to check necklines, straps, and back details accurately. Loose hair can hide important lines and affect fitting decisions.

5. Mindset

Bring patience and openness. Fittings are a process of refinement - some changes happen over multiple sessions, and small adjustments now save frustration later. I always say that some fittings are for me and not the client, as they help me make the seemingly minor but very crucial adjustments to patterns and samples moving forward. Some fittings are for the client to see the progress and vision coming to life, but others may seem quite boring and unproductive... trust me, they aren't!

6. Notes & Questions

If you have concerns about comfort, movement, or style, write them down. Fittings are the perfect time to clarify and ensure the garment aligns with your expectations. Make sure your thoughts and desires are expressed. It's of utmost importance to me to hear your voice and not the voices and opinions of everyone else around you.

Basic fitting underway at the VdV studio, 2025

By arriving prepared, you give yourself and your designer the best opportunity to create a garment that fits beautifully, moves naturally, and truly represents your style. Each fitting is a step toward the final moment when you see yourself in a dress that feels made for you... because it is.

You can read the more detailed version of this article here

See you in the studio soon!

With Love,

What to Bring or Wear to Every Dress Fitting (And Why It Matters)

 

Dress fittings are not just about trying on a garment - they are about creating a reliable foundation on which a dress can be built, refined, and perfected. What you wear to your fitting directly affects the accuracy of measurements, the success of structure, and ultimately how the finished piece fits and feels on your body.

Photography by Luvo Photography, 2020

Coming prepared allows the fitting process to be efficient, focused, and productive. It also helps manage expectations on both sides and avoids unnecessary adjustments or emergency fittings later on. Here is what you should always wear - or bring - to every fitting, and why each item matters.

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1. A Proper Bra (This Is Non-Negotiable)

A good bra is essential, particularly for structured, corset-based, or fitted garments. It acts as the template for everything that happens above the waist, and is particularly useful for much smaller busts that need more shape, and larger busts that need support, but also those who have uneven busts... basically, you need to bring a bra.

Choose a bra that:

• is lightly padded or more, depending on your comfort and fit preference, but definitely some sort of padding

• places your bust exactly where you want it to sit

• offers lift, support and stability that you desire

This bra determines bust placement, neckline proportions, and internal support. It gives me, the designer, the template for building your garment and placing seams, boning and padding correctly. If you come to a fitting without one (or wearing a sports bra) it compromises the entire structure-building process.

Important note:

Do not attend a corset-based fitting without a bra.

And please do not wear a sports bra! It compresses and flattens rather than lifts, giving a false impression of shape and volume that cannot be built upon accurately.

If you are unsure which bra is appropriate, ask ahead of time. It is always better to clarify than to guess.

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2. Shoes (Or the Closest Possible Alternative)

Shoes are not just about hem length - they influence posture, stance, and how the garment falls on the body.

Ideally, bring the exact shoes you plan to wear for the event.

If those are not yet chosen or haven't arrived yet, bring a pair with a similar heel height and style to what you plan to wear. 

Even small differences in height can affect proportions, balance, and how the dress interacts with your movement. Your posture in flats versus heels is noticeably different, and that change matters during fitting, especially when fitting the lower part of the body.

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3. Shapewear (If You Plan to Wear It or Are Accustomed to It)

If you intend to wear shapewear on the day of your event - or if you normally wear it - it should be worn to your fittings.

Shapewear affects:

• how fabric sits on the body

• how seams are placed

• how compression and structure interact

This is particularly helpful for:

• more mature clients

• plus-sized clients

• bodies with non-standard proportions

That said, shapewear is not exclusive to any one body type. It is simply a tool - and like all tools, it works best when it is accounted for from the beginning. Have a read about the importance of shape wear and foundation garments, no matter what type of body you have.

If you are unsure whether shapewear is necessary for your garment, bring it anyway. We can assess its usefulness together during the fitting.

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4. Seamless, Neutral Undergarments

When possible, wear undergarments in nude, beige, or tones close to your skin colour. 

Avoid:

• heavy lace

• thick seams

• bold colours

These can interfere with assessing fabric opacity, fit, and line placement, especially in lighter or more delicate materials.

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5. Hair Worn Simply (or Tied Back)

Your hairstyle doesn’t need to be final, but it should be:

• neat

• out of the way

This allows proper assessment of:

• necklines

• straps

• backs

• shoulder balance

Loose hair can obscure important details and distort how a garment reads on the body.

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6. Minimal Makeup (Optional, But Helpful)

Heavy makeup is not required for fittings and can sometimes transfer onto garments. A clean or lightly made-up face is perfectly fine and often preferable, especially when working with light-coloured fabrics.

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7. An Open Mind... and Patience

Finally, bring yourself in a cooperative, relaxed mindset. Fittings are a process. Adjustments are normal. Refinement takes time.

Please do not bring an entourage to your fittings. As exciting as it may be for you to share the experience with others, too many voices can disrupt valuable appointment time and productivity, and too many opinions of those closest to you can distort communication between you - the actual client - and the professional, your designer. Bringing anyone who was not present in the early stages of consultation and design review will inevitably lead to questions and opinions that would have been addressed at those times, and be a waste of precious time together. My recommendation is to always bring one (the same) trusted friend or family member throughout the process - if anyone at all - and when it is time for final fitting or garment collection, a full reveal fitting can be planned with whoever you would like to see the end result.

Your body may fluctuate slightly between fittings, and that is okay. The goal is not instant perfection, but progressive improvement. With this in mind, and knowing your body better than I do, bear in mind things like your menstrual cycle when planning fittings, whether it affects your overall mood, bloating or will even be something to consider for the timing of your wedding day or event.

Trust the process, communicate honestly, and remember that fittings are where the magic quietly happens.

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Coming prepared to your fittings is one of the simplest ways to ensure the best possible outcome for the process and your garment. It saves time, prevents unnecessary revisions, and allows the focus to remain where it should be - on creating a piece that fits beautifully, moves comfortably, and feels like you.

Preparation is not about perfection. It’s about giving the process the respect it deserves.

With Love,

The Difference Between Couture, Custom and Off-the-Rack

 

These terms are often used interchangeably in the fashion world, particularly around weddings and special events, but they actually describe very different approaches to how a garment is designed, made, and experienced. Understanding the distinction can help you make more informed and confident decisions, whether you are dressing for a wedding, a formal event, or any meaningful occasion in your life.

Off-the-rack garments are designed and produced in standard sizes, intended to fit as many bodies as possible. When you purchase off-the-rack, you are choosing a finished design that already exists, usually made in bulk. Alterations can be done to improve the fit, but there are limits - the garment was not created with your specific proportions, posture, or movement in mind. This is most often true for Caribbean women, who come in every shape, size and combination but "standard". This option prioritises accessibility and speed, which can be ideal in some circumstances, particularly when time is limited.

Custom garments sit between off-the-rack and couture. A custom piece is created specifically for you, often using an existing design as a starting point and then adapted to suit your body, event, and personal style. Measurements are taken, fittings are scheduled, and thoughtful adjustments are made along the way. This process allows for flexibility in fabric choice, silhouette, and detail, and it is well-suited to both bridal and special occasion wear where fit, comfort, and individuality matter.

Couture represents the highest level of craftsmanship. These garments are built, not assembled. They are constructed largely by hand, using traditional techniques that prioritise structure, internal support, and refined finishing. Couture pieces often require multiple fittings and a significant investment of time and skill. Much of the work is invisible to the eye but deeply felt by the wearer in how the garment moves, supports, and holds its shape over long hours.

Van der Vlugt custom couture construction underway, 2024

The key difference across all three approaches lies in intention, process, and labour.

Off-the-rack (also known as Ready-to-Wear) prioritises efficiency and scale. 

Custom prioritises adaptability and personalisation. 

Couture prioritises precision, craftsmanship, and longevity.

Van der Vlugt runway couture, 2019

There is no universal “right” choice. The best option depends on your timeline, budget, the importance of the occasion, and how you want to feel in the garment. Some events call for ease and simplicity; others call for something deeply considered and made just for you.

What matters most is understanding what you are investing in - not just financially, but emotionally. Clothing for milestone moments carries meaning. When you understand the process behind the garment, you are better equipped to choose one that aligns with your values, your body, and your expectations.

Whether it is a wedding, a black-tie event, or a once-in-a-lifetime celebration, the way a garment is made matters. Furthermore, when craftsmanship meets intention, the result is something that goes far beyond what hangs on the rack.

Van der Vlugt couture, 2022

With Love,

 

Wedding Planning Is Really a Marriage Rehearsal

I've written or spoken about this so many times. No one tells you this at the beginning, but wedding planning is less about logistics and far more about learning how you and your partner navigate your way through stress, pressure, disagreement, and uncertainty... together.

It’s easy to think of wedding planning as a single event to manage: a checklist of tasks to complete and items to get; a day to execute from start to finish. In reality, wedding planning is one long exercise in communication, compromise, and perspective. In many ways, it is your first real rehearsal for marriage.

During this time, you will be pulled in many directions. Opinions will come from all sides - family, friends, vendors, well-meaning acquaintances, even your work colleagues who aren't invited to the wedding. Everyone will have a suggestion, a preference, or a strong feeling about what you should do. This is usually based on their opinions about how they would do it. Very quickly, it becomes clear that you cannot please everyone.

This is where the real work begins.

How you and your partner decide together matters more than what you decide. How you handle disappointment, budget constraints, changes in plans, and unexpected obstacles will set the tone for how you approach the inevitable challenges of married life. Will you be adversaries, or will you be a team? Is it "my way or the highway", or "us against the world"?

Wedding planning has a way of exposing patterns. Who takes the lead? Who avoids conflict? Who gets overwhelmed by details, and who stays calm under pressure? None of this is inherently good or bad, but it is revealing. And it offers an opportunity to learn and know each other more deeply.

There will be moments where things don’t go according to plan - a vendor may fall through, a timeline may shift, or someone you counted on may disappoint you. These moments are not failures; they are practice. Practice in choosing grace over blame, solutions over resentment, perspective over perfection.

The healthiest couples are not the ones whose weddings are flawless, believe me. They are the ones who can zoom out and remember why they are doing this in the first place, the ones who can pivot with the unexpected and formulate a Plan B together. They understand that a marriage will require far more resilience than a seating chart ever will.

Photography by Kyle Archibald, 2022

Preparing for your wedding should never come at the expense of preparing for your marriage. I don't think I can stress this enough. Make time to step away from planning. Go on date nights where wedding talk is off-limits. Re-centre your relationship often. Water it intentionally.

At the end of the day, the wedding is the beginning of the journey, not the end goal of your relationship. And the skills you build during this season will serve you long after the flowers are gone and the dress is packed away.

With Love,

Why Slow Fashion Matters in Bridal

In an industry driven by trends, timelines, and instant gratification, choosing slow fashion for your wedding dress can feel almost countercultural. And yet, bridal is perhaps the one area of fashion where slowing down actually makes the most sense.

A wedding dress is not an everyday garment. It is deeply personal, emotionally charged, and often the most photographed piece of clothing a woman will ever wear. And still, so many brides are encouraged to rush the process - to chase trends, to compromise fit, or to prioritise speed over substance. And yes, sometimes time or budget requires these things, but slow fashion invites us to do the opposite.

Slow fashion in bridal is not about being anti-trend or anti-choice. It is about intention. It asks better questions:
Who made this?
How was it made?
Why does this matter to me?

When a dress is made slowly, thoughtfully, and by hand, it carries something more than fabric and thread. It carries time, skill, prayer, care and attention. It allows space for conversation, collaboration, and refinement. It honours the fact that bodies are not standardised, that style is not one-size-fits-all, and that meaningful things are rarely rushed. You're not just wearing a generic dress that several other people have worn (quite literally, if purchasing directly from a showroom off-the-rack... in which case, please have your dress dry-cleaned before the big day!), but you know this dress was made for you and with you in mind.

Photography by Francis Chu Foon, 2019

From a practical standpoint, slow fashion allows for better fit, better comfort, and better longevity. A garment that is designed specifically for your body moves with you differently. It feels different. It doesn’t require constant adjusting or tolerating discomfort “just for the day.” And long after the wedding is over, it becomes something you can preserve, repurpose, or simply treasure without regret.

From an emotional standpoint, slow fashion gives you ownership of your experience. You are not just choosing from what exists; you are participating in the creation of something new. You are seen, heard, and considered at every stage of the process. Your dress becomes a reflection of you, not of what happened to be popular that season. When working with brides, I take into account their personality as well as their personal style, and much of that is revealed throughout the fitting process and our journey together, not in a one-time meeting. The dress evolves as the relationship between the bride and the studio evolves.

There is also something quietly powerful about choosing craftsmanship in a fast world. About valuing skill, artistry, and human hands in an era of mass production. About recognising that luxury is not excess, but care.

Slow fashion is not always the easiest path. It requires ample planning, trust, and patience. That said, for many brides, it becomes one of the most rewarding parts of their wedding journey. It teaches you to slow down, to refine rather than rush, and to prioritise meaning over noise - lessons that serve you well far beyond your wedding day.

In bridal, slow fashion is not just a philosophy; it's a mindset. And for the right bride, it feels like coming home.

With Love,

The Foundation Matters More Than the Dress

Before a single bead is stitched or a hemline finalised, there is something far more important than the dress itself, and that's the foundation it rests on.

As a designer, I have seen breathtaking gowns fall flat simply because what was worn underneath was never given the same consideration as the dress. And as a bride myself, I now understand why this detail is so often overlooked. There is already so much to think about, from fabrics and colours to fittings, timelines and opinions (oh, so many opinions!)... it can feel endless. 

But hear me well on this: the right foundation doesn’t just change how your dress looks on you... it changes how you feel in it.

Van der Vlugt bridal corset and mermaid skirt, 2025

The quiet work that no one sees

In a world of highlight reels and dramatic reveals, foundation garments are rarely part of the conversation. They don’t photograph well on their own. They don’t sparkle. They don’t get pinned to mood boards. And yet, in the fitting room and on your special occasion, they do the quiet, necessary work that allows everything else to shine.

The foundation is what supports the silhouette, smooths transitions between fabric and body, and allows a dress to sit the way it was designed to sit. It affects posture, it affects movement, it affects confidence! Whether subtly or significantly depends on how thoughtfully it has been chosen. 

A dress should not be fighting the body. Nor should the body feel like it needs to be restrained in order to fit into a dress. When foundations are right, everything else falls into alignment.

Why are foundation garments so often an afterthought?

Many brides assume shapewear or undergarments are something to “figure out later,” once the dress is chosen. Others avoid the topic altogether, having had past experiences with uncomfortable, restrictive pieces that promised miracles and delivered misery.

There is also a quiet pressure, especially during wedding planning, to believe that the body itself must be altered or controlled in order for the dress to work. This mindset is not only unhelpful - it’s unnecessary. As a custom bridal and formal wear designer, I can tell you that your base garments are quite crucial to the fitting process and will make a noticeable difference. I can't tell you how many brides have waited until the very last weeks or days leading up to their wedding to then go hunting for shape wear, often when it's too late to get the right size in-store or order anything online.

Your body is not a problem to be solved. The foundation is simply a tool in the process to help you look your best.

What good foundation wear actually does

Let me be clear: good foundation garments are not about erasing you.

They are about:

• supporting areas that naturally need support

• creating a smooth canvas for fabric to drape and sit correctly, removing the distraction of awkward panty lines or rolls

• allowing you to stand, sit, walk, dance and breathe with ease in your dress

• helping you feel secure and fitted, not constrained

A well-chosen foundation should feel like quiet reassurance. You shouldn’t be counting the hours until you can take it off. You shouldn’t be adjusting it constantly throughout the day. You shouldn’t feel disconnected from your own body.

If you do, something is wrong... and it’s not you.

The fitting room truth

In my studio, part of the initial conversation with a client involves the topic of shape wear. It’s all about how the dress will interact with what lies beneath.

The same dress can look entirely different on a body, simply by changing:

• • the type of bra or bust support (this one is a biggie!)

  • the cut of the shapewear (thong, panty, brief or long? Decisions, decisions!)

  • where compression is placed (or avoided)

  • the length and structure of what’s worn beneath

  This is why I always encourage brides to finalise their foundation pieces early in the process and bring it with them for every fitting thereafter. A fitting is not the time to experiment with new undergarments or “see how it goes.” A custom fitting is where we refine and lock in the details, not where we introduce variables.

  When foundations are consistent, fittings become calmer, clearer, and far more productive.

  Posture, presence, and confidence

  There is something else foundations quietly influence that often goes unspoken: posture.

  When a bride feels unsupported, she compensates - shoulders round forward, breath becomes shallow, tension settles into the body. When she feels secure, her posture opens naturally. She takes up space with ease; she moves differently.

  Confidence is not just emotional, but also physical. You feel it, we see it.

  

  Van der Vlugt bridal corset and mermaid skirt, 2025

  And while no garment can create confidence where none exists, the right foundation can remove distractions that keep confidence from flowing freely.

Choosing support, not punishment

I always encourage my brides - regardless of shape, size or height - to shift their perspective here. Foundations are not about punishment or control. They are not a last-minute fix. They are part of the design conversation.

Just as you would not choose a fabric that fights the structure of a dress, you should not choose foundation garments that fight your body.

The goal is harmony between the body, the garment, and intention.

So, what's the verdict?

Your wedding dress is important. It carries meaning, memory, and beauty. But it does not exist in isolation.

The foundation is what allows the dress to do what it was designed to do, and allows you to be fully present on a day that will move faster than you expect. Take the time to choose support that honours you.

With Love,